Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA
type: channel
description: О гласнику Часопис Гласник Етнографског института САНУ објављује оригиналне, претходно необјављене радове: оригинални научни рад, прегледни научни рад, научна критика и полемика, приказ, научна библиографија. Часопис Гласник Етнографског института САНУ доступан је у режиму отвореног приступа. Публиковање у Гласнику Етнографског института САНУ је бесплатно. У часопису Гласник Етнографског института САНУ објављују се радови из области етнологије и антропологије и сродних друштвених и хуманистичких дисциплина. Радови могу бити написани на српском и сродним језицима и на енглеском језику. Радови на српском језику штампају се ћириличним писмом. Гласник Етнографског института САНУ излази минимум два пута годишње. Објављује и специјалне бројеве, са посебном тематиком и гостујућим уредником. Сва издања Гласника Етнографског института САНУ, почевши од првог броја, доступна су на следећој адреси: https://dais.sanu.ac.rs/handle/123456789/4515
language: en
publication name: Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA
issn: 0350-0861
items: REVIEWS
items: The Image of France and the Reception of French Social, Cultural, and Emancipatory Ideas in the Magazine Žena Danas (Woman Today) (1936–1940)
items: Entrepreneurial Production of Clothing. On the Impact of Entrepreneurs on Contemporary Clothing Culture
items: From Apocalyptic Threat to Object of Mockery: Social Perceptions of Artificial Intelligence Risks and Their Practical Implications
items: (Re-)Fugitive Democracy: Democracy from the Critical Point of Migration and Mobility
items: Solidarity Networks with Migrants in an Authoritarian Context and Urban Precarity on the European Periphery: the Experience of the Mayısta Yaşam Kooperatifi in Tarlabaşı (Istanbul)
items: Waiting for the Visa: Temporality, Emotions, and Researcher Positionality beyond Schengen
items: Child Labour of Unaccompanied Migrant Children on the Peripheries of the European Regime: Protected or Invisible?
items: Material Residues: An Ethnography of Migratory Traces in the Trieste Borderlands
items: Practices of Control and the Production of (Im)Mobility in Una-Sana Canton (Bosnia and Herzegovina)
items: European Irregularized Migration Regime: Keywords from Peripheries – Introduction
items: European Irregularized Migration Regime: Keywords from Peripheries - full issue
items: Др Александар Крел (1968–2021)
items: МИЛЕСА СТЕФАНОВИЋ БАНОВИЋ. ЗНАНО БУДИ. ЗАПИСИ У СРПСКИМ РУКОПИСИМА СЕНТАНДРЕЈСКЕ ЗБИРКЕ
items: GORDANA GORUNOVIĆ, OGLEDI IZ ETNOGRAFIJE I ANTROPOLOGIJE KNJIŽEVNOSTI
items: ЉУБАВ – НЕПРИЗНАТИ ТВОРАЦ КУЛТУРА И ТРАДИЦИЈА
items: WHAT’S IN A NAME: DEFINITION OF ORGANISED CRIME
items: THE LEXEME BUKË (’BREAD’) OBSERVED THROUGH THE PRISM OF ALBANIAN PHRASEOLOGY AND CULTURE (WITH REFERENCE TO SERBIAN)
items: FROM “BRILLIANT STUDY” TO “ONE WOMAN’S OUTCRY AGAINST HER NATURE”: “THE SECOND SEX” IN THE 1950S AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC JOURNALS
items: THE UNDEAD NEW WORLD: ZOMBIE EPIDEMICS’ APOCALYPTIC SURROUNDINGS AND SOCIAL RELATIONS
items: THE LEXEME KOŠULJA IN THE SPEECH OF THE PRIZREN-TIMOK DIALECT AREA
items: WOMEN’S CLOTHING PRACTICE DURING THE XX CENTURY IN NOVI PAZAR AND ENVIRONMENT
items: BY MUSEALIZING THE CAMOUFLAGE SUIT TO A NEW CLOTHING NARRATIVE
items: CHURUG FASHION 1907–1937 OR A REPORT OF A MUSEUM INSIDER
items: DRESSING AT THE LITURGY: THE EXAMPLE OF THE SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH
items: THE FASHION PRODUCTION SIROGOJNO STYLE: ADAPTATION OF THE NARRATIVE ABOUT THE PAST TO THE CONTEXT OF CONTEMPORARY FASHION
items: “TWICE IS NICE”: SECONDHAND CLOTHING IN TODAY’S GLOBAL WORLD
items: ОДЕВНИ НАРАТИВИ – УВОД У ТЕМАТ
items: Φωτοσκιάσεις στη Βυζαντινή Μουσική. Μικρή εισαγωγή στον κόσμο της ψαλτικής τέχνης [Byzantine Music Shades: A Brief Introduction to “The Art of Chanting” World]
items: Materijalna kultura iz novog ugla. Danijela Velimirović, Kible, baklave i fistani: tradicionalna materijalna kultura Srba u XIX i početkom XX veka

REVIEWS
type: item
description: REVIEWS
subject: Views
  topic: section
creator: Lazar Barać
creator: Gordana Gorunović
creator: Dejan Petković
creator: Nemanja Radulović
creator: Marina Mandić
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 231
ending page: 251

The Image of France and the Reception of French Social, Cultural, and Emancipatory Ideas in the Magazine Žena Danas (Woman Today) (1936–1940)
type: item
description: The paper analyzes the image of France and the reception of French ideas in the magazine Žena danas (Woman Today) during the period 1936–1940. The methodological framework of the study involves the application of reception theory, method of imagology, close reading, and translatology. The first part of the study explores representations of women’s status in French society and analyses texts reprinted from French magazines. The second part of the paper examines the function of reports on political and social developments in France as presented in Žena danas. Literature translated from French is interpreted through the prism of the journal’s editorial policy. The third part of the study deals with the reception of French cinematography and the image of female portraits of French women. The paper concludes that the magazine’s discourse on the Other evolves over time, from idealization and stereotyping to a destabilization and critique of the stereotypes structuring French society. Keywords: Woman Today, image of France, imagology, the reception of French ideas, women’s position in France, French translation literature
subject: Varia
  topic: section
creator: Emilija Ljutić
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 207
ending page: 229

Entrepreneurial Production of Clothing. On the Impact of Entrepreneurs on Contemporary Clothing Culture
type: item
description: Modern life in neoliberal capitalism, predominantly deregulated and based on the principles of supply and demand to gain maximum profits, when it comes to clothing, mainly connotes the so-called fast fashion. On the other hand, it is primarily related to large textile companies that impose fashion styles on large part of the consumer. There isn‘t much room in the market for small businesses. This paper presents the activities of small entrepreneurial clothing manufacturers, and is based on direct research of entrepreneurs. The paper argues how decisions are made about the design and production of clothes, what type of clothing manufacturers are focused on and how they build a relationship with consumers. Clothing production is viewed in an economic-anthropological context, i.e. in relation to how manufacturers objectify their understanding of consumers and the market through the production program of clothing. The paper seeks to establish the correlation between the socio-economic context of clothing manufacturers and their impact on clothing culture in the conditions of the market of small economic capacity, given the globalization trends in local communities. Keywords: production, entrepreneurship, consumption, everyday clothing, objectification
subject: Varia
  topic: section
creator: Miloš Matić
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 189
ending page: 205

From Apocalyptic Threat to Object of Mockery: Social Perceptions of Artificial Intelligence Risks and Their Practical Implications
type: item
description: Thе paper examines social perceptions of the risks associated with artificial intelligence, as manifested in reactions of fear and ridicule – specifically, in notions of the technology’s superiority or inferiority in relation to humans. The aim of thе paper is to analyze this pattern by identifying the factors that contribute to AI being simultaneously an object of fear and mockery, and highlighting practical implications of such social reactions for the control of AI-related risks. Thе paper advances the argument that ridicule provides a means of articulating more plausible risks from AI than those framed through fear. Lastly, we critically examine the use of the term “existential risk” to denote the threat of AI to the survival of civilization and humankind. Keywords: artificial intelligence (AI), risk, social perceptions, fear, ridicule
subject: Varia
  topic: section
creator: Vesna Trifunović
creator: Marina Mandić
creator: Krinka Baković
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 167
ending page: 188

(Re-)Fugitive Democracy: Democracy from the Critical Point of Migration and Mobility
type: item
description: The article aims to provide an analytical perspective for rethinking the essential concept of modern political theory, that of democracy, from a critical point of migration and mobility. In search of the perspective mentioned above, I follow the work of a group of authors featured in Minor Keywords of Political Theory: Migration as the critical standpoint, which critically reflects various keywords within the discourse of political theory and politics through the lens of migration. Sheldon Wolin’s concept of fugitive democracy is first introduced, which views democracy not as a stable form but as an unstable, temporary, fleeting moment of collective action. Wolin’s concept of fugitive democracy is expanded on by contributions from postcolonial theory, which have highlighted the influence of settler colonialism, imperialism and slavery on the development of modern democracy. From the perspective of postcolonial theory one historical example of fugitive democracy is analyzed: the Black frontline communities on the Underground Railroad in the Antebellum period in the US. Viewed from the perspective of postcolonial theory, the phenomenon of fugitivity not only has a temporal dimension, signifying temporary manifestations of collective power, but can also have a spatial dimension. Considering the spatial aspects of the phenomenon of fugitive democracy, fugitivity can mean flight, escape, departure, setting, and creating a sanctuary, a community of refuge, and an alternative way of life where it is possible to live freely. Therefore, I added the prefix (re-) to the concept of fugitive democracy to signify its spatial aspect, thus forming the new keyword, (re-)fugitive democracy. In the last section I follow the authors from Minor Keywords in their intention to rehabilitate the phenomenon of the mob and mass politics by seeing it as something immanent to democratic politics. In this process I critically examine their keyword “the mob” from Minor Keywords, adding essential …
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Duško Petrović
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 141
ending page: 163

Solidarity Networks with Migrants in an Authoritarian Context and Urban Precarity on the European Periphery: the Experience of the Mayısta Yaşam Kooperatifi in Tarlabaşı (Istanbul)
type: item
description: This article analyzes the role of solidarity networks, especially those driven by migrants’ direct involvement, in fostering alternative forms of coexistence in Istanbul’s precarious urban settings. The EU-Turkey statement from March 2016 is a fundamental example of how the securitization of migration in Europe has made Turkey’s role in the European border regime stronger and changed the cities where migrants want to live. The article builds on the idea that borders are decomposed and reproduced within cities. It uses ethnographic research conducted in Tarlabaşı, a central, marginalized area of Istanbul that has been historically marked by displacement, urban transformation, and demographic change. In this urban borderland, undocumented migrants live in unsafe places as grassroots groups set up networks for mutual aid and resistance. The analysis focuses on Maysta Yaşam Kooperatifi (Life in May Cooperative), a solidarity initiative offering Turkish language lessons and after-school activities for children. By emphasizing everyday practices, encounters, and self-organized forms of aid, the cooperative fights racism and exclusion while nurturing an inclusive urban community. These initiatives illuminate the subtle yet significant ways solidarity networks counter authoritarian pressures and reshape urban belonging. Keywords: Solidarity networks, migrants, urban precarity, authoritarianism, Tarlabaşı
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Cosimo Pica
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 115
ending page: 140

Waiting for the Visa: Temporality, Emotions, and Researcher Positionality beyond Schengen
type: item
description: This article analyses, through an autoethnographic approach, the mismatch between visa procedure timeframes and research rhythms. It draws on ethnographic fieldwork conducted in Sarajevo (Bosnia and Herzegovina) and uses selected literature and fieldnotes to show how the uncertainties and delays inherent in visa procedures intersected with the emotional and embodied experience of conducting research beyond the Schengen area. The article foregrounds the visa system as a key mechanism through which global inequalities in mobility are produced. This argument is situated within the context of the Balkan route, where policy shifts illustrate how migrants’ mobility has been restricted and governed. By contrast, as a European researcher, my own mobility is seldom structurally impeded; yet, the bureaucratic timeline of the volunteer visa procedure shaped how I accessed and inhabited the field. The autoethnographic account of the visa process traces how bureaucratic itineraries – through clinics, administrative offices, and insurance agencies – generated frictions, vulnerabilities, and alliances with local “guides”. The conclusion discusses the analytical value of this process, arguing that the bureaucratic route of the visa became a constitutive element of the research, shaping my map of the city and granting access to places that would otherwise have remained inaccessible. Keywords: visa, autoethnography, emotions, Sarajevo, Balkan route, solidarity
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Riccardo Sacco
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 93
ending page: 113

Child Labour of Unaccompanied Migrant Children on the Peripheries of the European Regime: Protected or Invisible?
type: item
description: This paper explores the largely overlooked phenomenon of child labour among unaccompanied and separated children travelling from Asia and Africa toward Europe via the Western Balkan route. Drawing on qualitative field research conducted in Serbia and Bosnia and Herzegovina, the study reveals that a substantial number of children engage in informal, hazardous, and exploitative work both during their journey and upon arrival in Serbia. Many undertake jobs classified as the worst forms of child labour, including dangerous physical labour, work with a high risk of injury, and involvement in illicit activities. Restrictive migration and asylum policies across transit countries push children into deep informality, leaving them invisible to protection systems and highly vulnerable to abuse by employers. Findings also show that national protection systems rarely identify child labour unless linked with suspected trafficking, resulting in inconsistent, insufficient, and reactive responses. The study highlights the urgent need for a child-rights–based approach that prioritises protection over securitisation within European migration governance. Keywords: child labour, unaccompanied children, Balkan route, protection systems, informality, European peripheries
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Violeta Marković
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 69
ending page: 91

Material Residues: An Ethnography of Migratory Traces in the Trieste Borderlands
type: item
description: The article presents and analyses material traces of irregularized migration in Trieste hinterland. Its theoretical foundations are complemented by two ethnographic fieldworks conducted in 2023 and 2025 in Trieste and its surroundings, among people who arrived in Trieste via the Balkan route and among the local inhabitants of the Trieste hinterland. The research shows that one of the key indicators of the hidden movement of people through this area is the presence of material traces at the town’s edges or within the forests. Considering the experiences of the interviewees, the article describes how diverse perceptions and terms attributed to the tangible traces of migration movements in this area are. Furthermore, it discusses the discourse that labels the material residues of irregularized migration as “waste”, which is consequently the reason for their removal from the environment. Above all, this article aims to show why researching the material traces of contemporary migration is important and necessary. Keywords: migration, Balkan route, material traces, forests, Trieste hinterland
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Hana Konjedic
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 47
ending page: 67

Practices of Control and the Production of (Im)Mobility in Una-Sana Canton (Bosnia and Herzegovina)
type: item
description: This paper examines how practices regulating and producing (im)mobility took shape in the Una-Sana Canton (Bosnia and Herzegovina) over the course of 2019 and 2020, where urban dynamics structured movement and produced uneven and precarious experiences for people on the move. Drawing on Critical Migration Studies and Border Studies, which conceptualize mobility as both a technology of governance and a site of contestation, the article engages with debates on how border regimes are unevenly embedded within local environments, infrastructures and everyday urban life. While existing literature has extensively documented EU border enforcement, pushbacks and the management of mobility at the external borders, less attention has been paid to the internal spatialization of border regimes and to how local authorities and communities actively shape zones of containment and invisibility within a country. Based on more than seven years of long-term engagement in the region, complemented by interviews conducted during my doctoral research within the ERC project “TheGAME. Counter Mapping Informal Refugee Mobilities along the Balkan Route”, the article traces how cantonal decisions to restrict mobility, and the public protests that accompanied them, contributed to the formation of an internal border zone within Bosnia and Herzegovina. The article shows how internal borders are assembled through practices that simultaneously enable, redirect, and obstruct movement. Keywords: Velečevo, Bosanska Otoka, forced (im)mobility, Vučjak, internal borders, “no man’s land”
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Roberta Gentili
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 17
ending page: 46

European Irregularized Migration Regime: Keywords from Peripheries – Introduction
type: item
description: In this special issue, the European irregularized migration regime will be examined through an ethnographic perspective, based on studies carried out in its peripheries. Rather than treating this regime as a coherent or centralized system, the contributions trace how it is assembled through everyday practices, material environments, spatial conditions, temporalities, but also through modes of control, care and negotiation. The papers collected in this issue focus on cases drawn from Turkey, Italy, Serbia, and Bosnia and Herzegovina to illustrate the way bordering and irregularization of migration occur at the margins of Europe. A set of interrelated keywords – (im)mobility, material traces, child labour, visa, solidarity networks, and (re-)fugitive democracy – structure the thematic analysis of the European irregularized migration regime as a field of practices, relations and ways of life. Keywords: keywords, migration, irregularization, periphery, Balkan route
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Teodora Jovanović
creator: Duško Petrović
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25
starting page: 11
ending page: 15

European Irregularized Migration Regime: Keywords from Peripheries - full issue
type: item
description: European Irregularized Migration Regime: Keywords from Peripheries - full issue
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
rights: Copyright (c) 2026 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2026-05-25
publication date: 2026-05-25

Др Александар Крел (1968–2021)
type: item
description: Др Александар Крел (1968–2021)
subject: In memoriam
  topic: section
creator: Jadranka Đorđević Crnobrnja
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 305
ending page: 309

МИЛЕСА СТЕФАНОВИЋ БАНОВИЋ. ЗНАНО БУДИ. ЗАПИСИ У СРПСКИМ РУКОПИСИМА СЕНТАНДРЕЈСКЕ ЗБИРКЕ
type: item
description: -
subject: Views
  topic: section
creator: Ivana Bašić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 299
ending page: 301

GORDANA GORUNOVIĆ, OGLEDI IZ ETNOGRAFIJE I ANTROPOLOGIJE KNJIŽEVNOSTI
type: item
description: -
subject: Views
  topic: section
creator: Sanja Zlatanović
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 295
ending page: 297

ЉУБАВ – НЕПРИЗНАТИ ТВОРАЦ КУЛТУРА И ТРАДИЦИЈА
type: item
description: Ивана Башић, Љубавне нити. Концепти љубави у Европској и Српској култури
subject: Views
  topic: section
creator: Dragana Radojčić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 291
ending page: 294

WHAT’S IN A NAME: DEFINITION OF ORGANISED CRIME
type: item
description: This paper provides an insight into the phenomenology of organised crime as a historical and contemporary experience, and discusses issues related to understanding and definitions. Since the social environment determines significance of organized crime in society, the paper highlights influence of political context in normative design of organised crime acts through the presentation of the genesis of criminal organisation. The paper also offers an analysis of the essential conceptual connections between various understanding of organised crime, primarily in the sense in which it is reflected in the norms, given that normative definitions of organised crime are typically influenced by the understanding of how organised crime generates social danger. By offering historical and anthropological overview of organised crime normative regulation, the authors seek to contribute to a deeper understanding of this socially destructive phenomenon and related challenges in social control state of affairs.
subject: Varia
  topic: section
subject: society
  topic: keywords
subject: organised crime
  topic: keywords
subject: gang
  topic: keywords
subject: definitions of organised crime
  topic: keywords
subject: normative interpretation
  topic: keywords
creator: Aleksandra Bulatović
creator: Nemanja Jovanović
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 265
ending page: 287
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201265B

THE LEXEME BUKË (’BREAD’) OBSERVED THROUGH THE PRISM OF ALBANIAN PHRASEOLOGY AND CULTURE (WITH REFERENCE TO SERBIAN)
type: item
description: The paper gives a somewhat limited overview of the importance of the lexeme bukë (’bread’) in Albanian culture from the aspect of linguoculturology and phraseology. The contrastive study is carried out from Albanian to Serbian and is based on the recorded phraseologisms and paroemias from relevant general and phraseological monolingual and bilingual dictionaries. The mentioned lexeme is observed as primary, although in both languages native speakers use a number of other secondary lexemes to designate a variety of sorts and shapes of bread. Idiotypical phraseological units demonstrate that the lexeme bukë takes a special place and plays an important role in developing and nurturing social and interpersonal relations. At the same time, a series of identical or rather similar homotypical phraseologisms are identified in Serbian, which speaks in favour of the existence of relatively concordant ways of thinking, evaluating, and understanding the significance and role of bread in human society.
subject: Varia
  topic: section
subject: bukë
  topic: keywords
subject: bread
  topic: keywords
subject: Albanian
  topic: keywords
subject: Serbian
  topic: keywords
subject: translation equivalents
  topic: keywords
subject: ethnography
  topic: keywords
subject: culture
  topic: keywords
creator: Predrag Mutavdžić
creator: Merima Krijezi
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 249
ending page: 264
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201249M

FROM “BRILLIANT STUDY” TO “ONE WOMAN’S OUTCRY AGAINST HER NATURE”: “THE SECOND SEX” IN THE 1950S AMERICAN SCIENTIFIC JOURNALS
type: item
description: Simone de Beauvoir’s The Second Sex has been considered as one of the most crucial books that influenced the second wave feminists, who mobilized during the 1960s and 1970s new massive feminist movement in America. This article analyses reception of the book in the American scientific/academic journals, and in that way, contributes to the field of periodical studies. This article, first, analyses post-war American context with the focus on status and role of women in the society, and then, moves on to enquire into the reception of The Second Sex in five American scientific journals, published during 1953 and 1954. The political context is intertwined with the absence of the critical reflexion among the first American authors who wrote about The Second Sex regarding the role of women in the 1950s Ameri ca. The article analyses the language, key topics for the authors of critiques (that the book is primarily French; that it cannot apply to American women and context; that the book is non-scientific, despite the publisher’s promotion, and that it does not provide directions for the social changes Beauvoir calls for; and finally, that the book has problematic arguments regarding motherhood and the status of married women).
subject: Varia
  topic: section
subject: The Second Sex
  topic: keywords
subject: Beauvoir
  topic: keywords
subject: periodical studies
  topic: keywords
subject: women’s question
  topic: keywords
subject: scientific journals
  topic: keywords
subject: post-war America
  topic: keywords
creator: Katarina Lončarević
creator: Marko Simendić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 223
ending page: 247
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201223L

THE UNDEAD NEW WORLD: ZOMBIE EPIDEMICS’ APOCALYPTIC SURROUNDINGS AND SOCIAL RELATIONS
type: item
description: The narratives of zombie films articulate social relations in the context of an apocalyic social environment, indicating unstoppable processes of disease spreading through the omnipresence of zombies as the primary infection carriers, emphasizing discourses of biological catastrophe, that is, epidemics of infectious diseases as a potential means of the end of a modern civilization. As portrayed in movies about zombies, epidemics could be observed as a type of imagined future of the virus, that is, as an advanced stage in infectious disease evolution, which leads to the deconstruction and complete collapse of the existing social system, and then to apocalyptic consequences and the forming of a new social order. An epidemic creates conditions in which previously known institutional organization ceases to exist and shapes individual behaviors that transform social environments to meet the demands of new social and biological discourses. Due to such circumstances, social surroundings are significantly changed, and disease establishes itself as a signifier of social strategies, relationships towards the infected, and the area for the redistribution of social power and livelihood. The aim of this paper is to reveal the ways of social reorganization and social disruption caused by the zombie epidemic, emphasizing the role of the disease in reshaping social groups and relationships, with the purpose of analyzing the ways in which movie narratives metaphorize the efficiency of infectious diseases.
subject: Varia
  topic: section
subject: epidemic
  topic: keywords
subject: apocalypse
  topic: keywords
subject: zombie
  topic: keywords
subject: virus
  topic: keywords
subject: social surroundings
  topic: keywords
creator: Marina Mandić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 197
ending page: 221
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201197M

THE LEXEME KOŠULJA IN THE SPEECH OF THE PRIZREN-TIMOK DIALECT AREA
type: item
description: The paper provides a lexical-semantic and ethnolinguistic analysis of the various names used in the speeches of South-East Serbia to denote the traditional košulja or shirt and its component parts. The lexical material was excerpted from dialectical dictionaries and expanded with data compiled for the first volume of the Serbian Dialectical Atlas. The recorded nominations were described based on semantic data confirmed in the dictionaries, and then analyzed as part of semantic groups and subgroups. The aim of this paper was to perform a lexical-semantic analysis to indicate the importance of the traditional shirt as part of the traditional Serbian dress in the linguistic image of the world of patriarchal speakers of the Prizren-Timok dialect area, the cultural specificities (beliefs, rituals, symbols, etc.) embedded into the semantic content of the given lexical units, as well as the specific attitude of the representative speakers towards one segment of traditional material culture.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: the Serbian language
  topic: keywords
subject: the Prizren-Timok dialect area
  topic: keywords
subject: the lexeme košulja
  topic: keywords
subject: traditional material culture
  topic: keywords
creator: Ana Savić-Grujić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 179
ending page: 194
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201179S

WOMEN’S CLOTHING PRACTICE DURING THE XX CENTURY IN NOVI PAZAR AND ENVIRONMENT
type: item
description: In this paper we will present everyday clothing in the city and village, during the XX century, on the ground of Novi Pazar. The emphasis is placed on the women`s everyday clothing and special features that are reflected primarily in confessional practices. In addition to the differences in clothing that arose from the confessional practices, we will point out to the others aspects which influenced on the diversity of clothing, such as – education, employment, the influence of the external environment (people outside the family, the media and etc.), economic status etc. Differences conditioned by the status of women in society, which changed significantly after World War II, with greater emancipation of women and their gradual exit from the patriarchal family framework caused changes in clothing appearance. The aim of this paper is to present the complexity of everyday clothing practices of women and its changes in the territory of Novi Pazar and its environment.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: Novi Pazar and surroundings
  topic: keywords
subject: ate
  topic: keywords
subject: changes
  topic: keywords
subject: social processes
  topic: keywords
subject: Serbs
  topic: keywords
subject: Bosnians
  topic: keywords
creator: Nina Aksić
creator: Hasna Zilјkić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 149
ending page: 177
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201149A

BY MUSEALIZING THE CAMOUFLAGE SUIT TO A NEW CLOTHING NARRATIVE
type: item
description: The primary function of introducing the so-called “camouflage suit” or camo suit into the military and police formations in the late 1980s also had the consequence of transferring its functions to a secondary level, by the sheer proliferation of such sets used in war activities during the breakup of the former Yugoslavia. For the ethnographic heritage, the challenge of the liminal status of the camouflage suit within the framework of men’s work pattern in the redefined folk economy is reflected in the short period of its establishment and use. On the other hand, its widespread use and an ongoing cultural phenomenon support the musealization of samples of such a clothing pattern, as well as the need to set up research on the impact of folk economy on clothing culture and vice versa. As camouflage suits were obtained and used in the process of integration into the everyday work pattern of members of rural communities, retired men and “weekend farmers” engaged in agricultural activities, they became a mirror image of the dissolution of late socialism as a social system in Serbia. This new status has contributed to the redefinition of the function and content of new men’s clothing patterns, in line with the broader changes in the value system and redistribution of state and social authority. Consequently, anthropologization of museological discourse creates suitable conditions for discussing the existence of the tertiary communicative role and significance of all types of military apparel, including camouflage suits.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: camouflage suit
  topic: keywords
subject: folk economy
  topic: keywords
subject: Ethnographic Museum
  topic: keywords
subject: ethnographic museology
  topic: keywords
subject: clothing narrative
  topic: keywords
subject: identity constructs
  topic: keywords
subject: anthropologization
  topic: keywords
creator: Marko Stojanović
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 127
ending page: 148
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201127S

CHURUG FASHION 1907–1937 OR A REPORT OF A MUSEUM INSIDER
type: item
description: The paper starts from the critique of the opinion that has developed in the 21st century within the framework of Serbian ethnological / anthropological science, and is related to the study and interpretation of traditional clothing of the rural population. Namely, the work of ethnologists / curators is criticized as the romantic relics in Serbian museology, who is consisted of the endless description of clothing and decorations on them. This paper has intention to point out some different ways of thinking on the Collections of traditional clothing in Serbia. The openness of anthropology to other humanities can help us find new ways to interpret the artefacts of the past. In terms of the use of other approaches, we primarily mean the theory of fashion, gender studies, cultural history, but also some of the anthropological approaches to clothing that are less used in our country, such as the theory of cultural authentication. Also, in the paper has been pointed out on the terminolgy distinction between traditional clothes / folk costume / folk dress and fashion clothes which has existed in the anthropology of clothing for a long time, and refers to diferent lines of identity and function wearer of clothes. This terminological distinction is very important in the initial interpretation of artefacts that can be found in clothing collections today. In the second part of the paper author applies the theoretical concept named The Dress detective, by Mida and Kim, on an apron from the Collection of Folk Costumes and Clothing of the Museum of Vojvodina. Analysis of the apron from village Čurug brought the author to the new concept of scientific approach to the museum objects, especially those made of textile.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: Collection of Folk Costumes
  topic: keywords
subject: fashion
  topic: keywords
subject: cultural authentication
  topic: keywords
subject: clothing detective
  topic: keywords
creator: Katarina Radisavlјević
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 101
ending page: 126
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201101R

DRESSING AT THE LITURGY: THE EXAMPLE OF THE SERBIAN ORTHODOX CHURCH
type: item
description: This paper discusses the clothing of the Serbian Orthodox Church believers at the end of the twentieth and the beginning of the twenty-first century. The main goal was to determine whether there is a desirable/ideal model of clothing for SOC believers, at the liturgy as well as the type and degree of deviation from it in the daily practice of believers. The paper is based on ethnographic material collected during the last five years in churches and monasteries throughout Serbia using the method of observation, semi-structured questionnaire, informal conversation and the use of information from Orthodox forums and websites.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: clothing
  topic: keywords
subject: believers
  topic: keywords
subject: Serbian Orthodox Church
  topic: keywords
subject: identity
  topic: keywords
creator: Bilјana Anđelković
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 77
ending page: 100
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201077A

THE FASHION PRODUCTION SIROGOJNO STYLE: ADAPTATION OF THE NARRATIVE ABOUT THE PAST TO THE CONTEXT OF CONTEMPORARY FASHION
type: item
description: Fashion, by definition, implies (and requires) constant changes and innovations. This paper, using the example of the fashion production Sirogojno Style, follows the process of the adaptation of the narrative about the past, by which the fashion production Sirogojno Style was recognizable for many years in the Yugoslavian and international fashion scene, to the context of contemporary fashion. The focus, on this occasion, is George Styler's collection NetWork, presented in 2014 at London Fashion Week; more specifically, the part of the collection that was made in collaboration with the “Sirogojno Company”. The study of the new narrative function of Sirogojno knitwear in the context of contemporary fashion was based on written and visual sources as well as on data gathered during a semi-structured interview done in April 2021 with the fashion creator George Styler. The aim of this study is to contribute to contemporary anthropological studies of fashion and clothing.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: fashion production Sirogojno Style
  topic: keywords
subject: George Styler
  topic: keywords
subject: NetWork collection
  topic: keywords
subject: narratives
  topic: keywords
subject: fashion
  topic: keywords
creator: Bojana Bogdanović
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 53
ending page: 76
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201053B

“TWICE IS NICE”: SECONDHAND CLOTHING IN TODAY’S GLOBAL WORLD
type: item
description: Clothes, especially of high symbolic and/or material value, were always treasured and passed on to other users as gifts, heirlooms and legacies or given to charity, usually through religious institutions. Although secondhand clothing has a long history, it grew in volume and visibility with industrial revolution and the establishment of the consumer society, the driving force of capitalism. Desire to accumulate the new was always accompanied with the need to dispose of the old. Partly still maintaining charitable character, the global used-clothing exchange, starting with the 19th century rag trade international networks, has grown into a multi-billion-dollar commerce between the global North and the global South. While used clothes are still considered by some as trash, they can be a blessing to the world of the poor, a powerful (counter)-cultural declaration to some groups (e.g., hippies, grunge), or, if marketed as vintage, a deliberate fashion statement. Whatever the case, they present a “hot” controversial topic. Nowadays, the way secondhand is viewed and used around the world, proves again that globalization is a creative process producing always new forms of hybridization. This paper presents a short history and diverse views of the phenomenon. The research was based on multi-sited participant observation and interviews over an extended period of time.
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
subject: history of secondhand clothing
  topic: keywords
subject: clothing industry and trade
  topic: keywords
subject: recycling
  topic: keywords
subject: sustainability
  topic: keywords
subject: secondhand clothing semantics as it crosses cultural boundaries
  topic: keywords
creator: Mirjana Prošić-Dvornić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 19
ending page: 52
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201019P

ОДЕВНИ НАРАТИВИ – УВОД У ТЕМАТ
type: item
description: -
subject: Topic of the issue
  topic: section
creator: Milina Ivanović Barišić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-04-15
publication date: 2022-04-15
starting page: 13
ending page: 18
doi: 10.2298/GEI2201013I

Φωτοσκιάσεις στη Βυζαντινή Μουσική. Μικρή εισαγωγή στον κόσμο της ψαλτικής τέχνης [Byzantine Music Shades: A Brief Introduction to “The Art of Chanting” World]
type: item
description: This book is an exciting journey into the world of Byzantine music. It explicitly explores and presents the essence of Byzantine chanting and its twofold character, namely that of strict rules and spirituality but also of creativity and cosmopolitanism. Based on field research and personal experiences (namely years of the author’s travels to parishes and monasteries in Serbia, Greece and elsewhere), the reader comes across useful information which is both grounded and emotional. Its pages shed light on the monophonic chanting of the Eastern Orthodox Church by looking both at its past history and meditating onto its future, with an ultimate goal to capture the inner rhythm that penetrates the oral and written tradition of Byzantine music.
subject: Views
  topic: section
creator: Maria Chnaraki
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-08-15
publication date: 2022-08-15
starting page: 279
ending page: 281

Materijalna kultura iz novog ugla. Danijela Velimirović, Kible, baklave i fistani: tradicionalna materijalna kultura Srba u XIX i početkom XX veka
type: item
description: Živimo u vremenu kada je tradicionalni način života, pa samim tim i materijalno stvaranje koje ga je karakterisalo, gotovo u potpunosti potisnuto ne samo iz svakodnevnog života, nego većim delom i iz obredno-običajne prakse. Iz tih razloga svaki rad koji se bavi problematikom materijalne kulture od izuzetnog je značaja jer doprinosi boljem upoznavanju ne samo prošlosti naroda koji ju je stvarao, već je istovremeno podsećanje na tu istu prošlost. U tom smislu se može posmatrati i monografska studija Kible, baklave i fistani: tradicionalna materijalna kultura Srba u XIX i početkom XX veka.
subject: Views
  topic: section
creator: Milina Ivanović Barišić
rights: Copyright (c) 2022 Bulletin of the Institute of Ethnography SASA https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/
date: 2022-08-15
publication date: 2022-08-15
starting page: 275
ending page: 278